The New York Times has just named Bodrum as one of its top destinations, citing its swanky hotels, chic new marina, prowling paparazzi and high-decibel nightlife. It scores over many other Turkish resorts by being so close to an airport - just 22 miles away.
By day Bodrum, with its handsome ranks of white stucco houses and borders of bougainvillea, shimmers on a hill above two bays. By night it basks in the glow of the lit-up St Peter's Castle, home of the fabulous Museum of Underwater Archeology. There are wondrous riches under Turkey's coastal waters - 20,000 or more wrecked boats from 1000 BC and earlier. A tiny number have been recovered and the very best are here, with a tantalising taste of their treasure.
Above ground we are 500 years too late for the astounding 'Seven Wonders of the World' Mausoleum (Bodrum was then Halicarnassus), which the knights of Malta made into the castle. But the base is worth seeing, and there's much more left of the amphitheatre and the thunderous Myndus Gate, which Alexander the Great tried to beat down when this was the strongest fortified city in Asia Minor.
I think Bodrum and its 15 miles of Peninsula to the west sum up the success of the Turkish tourist boom. While it turned small villages such as Gumbet into 24-hour resorts, neighboring beaches remained havens of peace.
Until 30 years ago it was easier to travel by boat than by land around this rugged out-thrust, where the Aegean and Mediterranean meet. Roads are good now, but consider hiring a car for the longer trips.
The peninsula villages of Bitez, Gundogan, Ortakent, Turgutreis and Yalikavak, which provide plenty of beach life, watersports and diving, are all easily reached by dolmus (little bus) for a few pounds. Any dolmus trip takes you through high and ancient farmland of terraced fields and beehives, with thrilling glimpses over a latticework of islands, capes and inlets looking out on to a brilliant aquamarine sea.
This is Turkey, so take a trip: lazy, bay-hopping jaunts by boat; trekking in the hills above Bodrum; four-wheel-drive safari; coach tour to further-off archaeological wonders of Ephesus and Didyma. There's plenty of choice, so shop around. The hydrofoil to Kos costs approximately £38 and my favorite is the ferry to Datca Peninsula, then taxi to the awesome, and deserted, Greek remains at Knidos.
The view of a golden sunset over the sea at Gumusluk, on the peninsula's far western tip, 15 miles from Bodrum, is one of the glories of the Aegean. Better still; find a terrace table at any of the excellent Gumusluk fish restaurants for just such a view as Brutus and Cassius had when they holed up here after murdering Julius Caesar.
Most places on the peninsula offer the Turkish staples of salads, humus, yoghurt and mint, kebabs, stuffed peppers, meatballs, rich sweet baklava, Efes beer and Villa Doluca wine.
However, the smart set are demanding more invention and find it in the much-praised Secret Garden in Bodrum.
Gareth Dave - The Mail On Sunday - 20 May 2007